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Post by irishtransit on Sept 11, 2014 19:11:54 GMT 1
I've just been out investigating the rear corners on rusty and trying to work out how they all fit,seems quite complex at the top,and here's me question. has anyone repaired/rebuilt the top corner and have pic /advice.on rusty and the s/h panel I have the curved section at the top that joins the pillar and roof is rusted but repairable but parts of the pillar and roof section that makes up the gutter is rusted.what can I use to repair this,can I use some sort of u section steel? also the lower half of the pillar from the swage line on rusty is very rusty and on the s/h is rust but not as much.,1 is it safe to cut the pillar in half and make good 1 out of the 2(would it affect the structural integrity of the rear corner). 2 do iuse the better one and cut out all the little bits and replace them without cutting the pillar in half?
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Post by dodgerover on Sept 11, 2014 21:13:03 GMT 1
As long as you can make a decent job of welding it without distorting it then its fine to cut it in half
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Post by muttleymk2 on Sept 11, 2014 22:10:30 GMT 1
U can do anything, u have a welder
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Post by irishtransit on Sept 11, 2014 23:28:10 GMT 1
that's for the help and convidence booster.what should I use for the lower part as there must be about 6inches missing.
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Post by troppo on Sept 12, 2014 4:49:46 GMT 1
You got any pics? When you use a welder on thin steel tack weld it on opposite sides and travel around like that to prevent too much warpage
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Post by FredTransit on Sept 12, 2014 10:48:55 GMT 1
Personally (if I could weld) I would perfect the repair section off the van then fit the whole thing, using the original seems to hide the repair.
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Post by irishtransit on Sept 12, 2014 12:59:31 GMT 1
You got any pics? When you use a welder on thin steel tack weld it on opposite sides and travel around like that to prevent too much warpage you can see just to the right of the bumper bracket a tiny piece left.not a lot to weld it too either.
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Post by muttleymk2 on Sept 12, 2014 21:30:31 GMT 1
Brutally honestly, you should cut all of that out and replace it with fabricated or donor panels. Rust that bad will go deep and you are just seeing the tip of the iceberg
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Post by troppo on Sept 12, 2014 23:16:17 GMT 1
I`m with Muttley on this one, you really have to cut back to solid steel before you can do any real repair work. Dont be scared by it, its not as hard as it sounds. What you need to do is sandblast the corner to remove any traces of rust. Two tips 1/ the rust will be worse than you thing everytime 2/never use a sandblaster pointing straight at a panel, always attack it at a 70 or 80 degree angle to minimise stretching the panel. The repair section is going to be a scarey bastard with lots of curves and bends in the one piece, DONT PANIC! break the repair patch down into several parts with one bend or one curve in them. Tack weld the pieces into place, tapping and nudging to get the best fit as you go. Next up DO NOT stich or seam weld the pieces in place, you will distort the hall out of the panel. Tack the panels together with fairly hot tacks, placing them at 12, 6, 3 and 9 0`clock to spread the heat around and minimise distortion. You will get so sick oyf doing this that you will try to take shortcuts (and i dont blame you) but if you do make sure only to do it on ver curvey panels as they resist distortion much more than a flatter panel Cheers Troppo
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Post by irishtransit on Sept 13, 2014 0:01:51 GMT 1
cheers for the advice.providing I get my money back from a failed delivery the plane is to get the rear valance and lower rear corner.i have a new corner section and will use an old but rust free bonnet to rebuild the rusty bits.unfortunately have no access to a sand blaster.
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Post by troppo on Sept 13, 2014 2:54:36 GMT 1
cheers for the advice.providing I get my money back from a failed delivery the plane is to get the rear valance and lower rear corner.i have a new corner section and will use an old but rust free bonnet to rebuild the rusty bits.unfortunately have no access to a sand blaster. Well you are going to need wire cup brushes for your grinder then, and wire wheels in a die grinder or dremel. Rust needs to be removed and the steel treated to prevent it blooming again. You dont need a lot of fancy tools but you do need patience to do it right, you need to get rid of all the rust in a section before you do any panel work there. Stick with it mate, theres nothing like the feeling of "i did it myself"
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Post by irishtransit on Sept 13, 2014 12:58:31 GMT 1
ye I have a good stiff wire cup for me grinder and kurust,wire brush,flap wheel etc as just almost finished me Cortina it's just a case of doing what I can for the time being.
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Post by irishtransit on Sept 13, 2014 15:00:22 GMT 1
another question please. i'm trying to separate the pillar from the corner panel but I can't find any spot weld dimples.was it spot welded or glued with something?
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Post by FredTransit on Sept 13, 2014 15:10:55 GMT 1
It should be spot welded but I dont know where or in what order. FFS dont cut up a rust free bonnet! Use something else.
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Post by dodgerover on Sept 13, 2014 19:24:33 GMT 1
Make sure to WEAR eye protection when using them on the grinder, especially the cheaper ones, I've pulled wires out of my arms and it's not nice, don't even want to think about getting one in the face. It'll definitely be welded somewhere.
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