|
Post by gpw on Nov 30, 2012 11:24:46 GMT 1
sorta did that, used a handbroom and a broom handle lol to be honest very little came out, the chassis is mint, still got its original paint under the waxoyl and when we cut the top off it was bright and shiny inside, well from the cab back anyhow. done a few drain holes, the only bit Im worried about is where the box section is in the chassis, it might rot between the box and chassis. It's more likely to have been White Wax than Waxoyl Stoney. Gobbed on out of a Schutz gun, or a trade set up where the wax came out under pressure. The guy spraying wore something that looked like a deep sea diver's suit. I don't quite know how to put this Stoney, but if I 've understood correctly, you've cut your chassis vertically, and extended it with either box section or original chassis section. As I say, if I've understood correctly, I reckon you are more likely to get fatigue where the hefty box joins the lighter chassis than problems with rot. What do you reckon please Muttley? On the bright side, if, when you can afford it, you give your box sections, doors, etc a good squirt of that Dinitrol from a vapourising spray, it will setle everywhere, creeping into the crevisses, and through the rust to the good metal. If you cut a little hole at the side bottom of a door, and spray it in at high pressure with a slow feed rate on the Dino and the window a bit open, then wind the window fully up, you'll find Dino settled on the glass.
|
|
|
Post by gpw on Nov 30, 2012 12:09:49 GMT 1
When you can afford one Stoney, this is the sort of injector gun that is probably the most versatile.
Dinitrol UBS/HV PRESSURE POT GUN GSI 9122 You can get a variety of wands for it. One problem is that they fall over and spill whatever gloop you are using, I suppose the answer is to have a sky-hook handy to hang 'em off when you park them.
Page 24. www.dinitrolautohaz.hu/Produktkatalog_Ansicht_01.pdf
|
|
|
Post by gpw on Nov 30, 2012 15:05:06 GMT 1
There's few Shutz guns with tubes off where the nozzle goes here Stoney. Some claim adjustable sprays. They work with diluted / thinned Waxoyl too.
I can't see any reason whil you couldn't change the plastic pipe for a longer one. I poke mine down the box section as far as it will go, and then squeeze the trigger while I pull the plastic pipe out. I think the plastic pipe on mine is about 4 and a half times as long as your foot. ;D
|
|
|
Post by stoney on Nov 30, 2012 19:38:39 GMT 1
Hi all
Yes slightly concerned with fatigue/ rust trap between box and chassis but wanted the strength in there too, this is actually the second time this chassis has been extended the first time it was done by a complete muppet on one side and the other was done by a welding artist!
When we cut the original extension out on one side it was beautifully seam welded all the way round, plugged through from the original chassis to the box and then seam welded inside the chassis at the other end of the box too, on the other side when we cut the weld holding chassis to box half of it literally fell out and split in half when it hit the floor!
The scary bit is I know the previous owner well and I know he used to carry some serious weight on it all around the country, once boasted about taking 4 ton of machinery on it from surrey to scotland and knowing him I believe it!
|
|
|
Post by gpw on Nov 30, 2012 19:46:29 GMT 1
Hi all Yes slightly concerned with fatigue/ rust trap between box and chassis but wanted the strength in there too, this is actually the second time this chassis has been extended the first time it was done by a complete muppet on one side and the other was done by a welding artist! When we cut the original extension out on one side it was beautifully seam welded all the way round, plugged through from the original chassis to the box and then seam welded inside the chassis at the other end of the box too, on the other side when we cut the weld holding chassis to box half of it literally fell out and split in half when it hit the floor! The scary bit is I know the previous owner well and I know he used to carry some serious weight on it all around the country, once boasted about taking 4 ton of machinery on it from surrey to scotland and knowing him I believe it!
|
|
|
Post by stoney on Nov 30, 2012 19:52:17 GMT 1
where we have extended the chassis we cut the top and bottom half of the original chassis at different points, slid the box section inside the chassis then seam welded it in place at either end, but not all the way around so as not to create water traps, we then plugged through the chassis either side of the box section for added strength, we also staggered the joint over 3 point to spread the load.
The chassis now looks like its factory as all the visible metal is genuine ford apart from a couple of small plates.
Im quite confident with what we have done, if the original extensions survived at least 10 years of abuse, then Im sure ours will be just fine as I like my license so will keep things a bit more legal at least!
|
|
|
Post by gpw on Nov 30, 2012 20:50:01 GMT 1
Sounds workmanlike Stoney.
|
|
|
Post by stoney on Nov 30, 2012 21:58:39 GMT 1
In the workshop tonight ripping off rear axle, springs and hangers, getting it up on axle stands ready to start buzzing it off in the morning, would do it tonight but would probably not go down too well with the neighbours!
|
|
|
Post by muttleymk2 on Nov 30, 2012 22:03:19 GMT 1
If you make a good strong beaver body it will help carry the weight of the load and spread it evenly, that will take the strain off your extensions Treat rust prevention as an ongoing project and try to leave some access for future rust treatments
|
|
|
Post by gpw on Nov 30, 2012 22:28:30 GMT 1
If you make a good strong beaver body it will help carry the weight of the load and spread it evenly, that will take the strain off your extensions Treat rust prevention as an ongoing project and try to leave some access for future rust treatments Do you recommend reinforcing the chassis where the beaver ends please Muttley?
|
|
|
Post by stoney on Nov 30, 2012 23:04:47 GMT 1
fitted a couple of extra oval inspection cover things for just that purpose.
Not sure whether we are gonna carry the chassis on for the beaver or do it how most seem to be built with small box section off the back of the chassis, its a question of weight vs strength.
got a 4 metre wheelbase so overhang can be upto 2.4m which would give me a max 6m bed lol prob going for 5.25m to make the maths easy and cant see me needing it any longer!
|
|
|
Post by gpw on Dec 1, 2012 10:07:42 GMT 1
fitted a couple of extra oval inspection cover things for just that purpose. Not sure whether we are gonna carry the chassis on for the beaver or do it how most seem to be built with small box section off the back of the chassis, its a question of weight vs strength. got a 4 metre wheelbase so overhang can be upto 2.4m which would give me a max 6m bed lol prob going for 5.25m to make the maths easy and cant see me needing it any longer! Do you want some ball park figues on weight Vs strength please Stoney?
Do you want some ball patk figures on working out bed / overhang length please?
|
|
|
Post by stoney on Dec 1, 2012 13:31:39 GMT 1
Sounds good to me wadda ya know?
|
|
|
Post by gpw on Dec 1, 2012 18:55:53 GMT 1
Sounds good to me wadda ya know?
Huh huh, The one thing I know Stoney, is that I don't know very much.
From here on in, it's down to what I think’s about right. If anyone thinks I've got it wrong, I'm all ears.
1 think there’s a lot of truth in the saying that goes, if you don't worry about getting caught, you won't get caught. But if you worry you will get caught.
To business
A 200mm deep beam is 4 times as strong as a 100mm beam over the same length.
A 2 metre beam needs to be 4 times as strong as a 1 metre beam to carry the same weight in the middle.
A 6mm wall 50 by 100 beam weighs more than a 3mm wall beam 50 by 200 but only carries half as much weight over a given length.
A 6mm wall 50 by 200 beam will carry 2 times as much weight as a 3mm wall 50 by 100 beam. While a 50 by 200mm beam will carry 4 times as much weight as a 2mm 50 by 100mm beam. All beams the same length.
Overhang.
If a 100Kg man stands on the ball at the back of truck with a 1 metre overhang, and a 3m wheelbase, he increases the payload on the front axle by 33kg, and decreases the payload on the back axle by 133kg.
While if a 100Kg man stands on the ball at the back of truck with a 2 metre overhang, and a 3m wheelbase, he increases the payload on the front axle by 66kg, And decreases the payload on the back axle by 166kg.
The weight and length of your overhang makes a big difference to how you load. The weight of your overhang comes off your payload.
Bed length and overhang.
Say you can legally carry is 500Kg payload on your front axle, and say 1000kg on your back axle. Your wheelbase is say 3 metres. Then you have to put the centre of gravity of your payload 1 metre in front of the back axle if you want to carry 1500kg.
300 cms forwards or back, and you are liable for overloading the front or the rear axle.
The centre of gravity of a normal rear wheel drive car is somewhere about level with the middle of the driver's seat, but in the middle of the car.
If you are carrying a 1.5 ton car, you need it’s driver’s seat about 1 metre in front of the back axle. This means the front of the car will be about 2.5 metres in front of the back axle. And about 2 metres behind the front axle.
Say 1 metre from the car's C of G to it’s back axle, and you don't need any overhang, as the cars axle will be over the truck axle.
In my book, there's not much point in extending the beavertail beyond the spring hangers. Unless you are doing motorway recovery where getting it on the back quickly saves lives.
Yep, ramps are a nuisance, but you need them any way. Long ramps with a short beavertail should take less weight off your payload than a long overhang and short ramps.
Ramps don’t get inspected.
|
|
|
Post by muttleymk2 on Dec 1, 2012 21:17:07 GMT 1
One word when it comes to strength without too much weight. "Triangulation" ;D
|
|