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brakes
Nov 5, 2012 17:02:27 GMT 1
Post by fortyeight on Nov 5, 2012 17:02:27 GMT 1
hi mk2 my brakes failed as if they needed bleeding for about 25miles the next time i used it the brakes were normal,been told its the compensator at fault,any info on this
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brakes
Nov 5, 2012 18:35:58 GMT 1
Post by gpw on Nov 5, 2012 18:35:58 GMT 1
The thing I know as a compensator is a gadget between the chassis and the axle that adjusts front / rear brake balance according to the load on the axle. It's a fairly technical device, both inside, and to fit. Not something I'd change until I'd thoroughly bleed the system. How do you feel about bleeding your brakes very thoroughly Fortyeight? It's fairly easy on your own if you go about it the right way, although you will need a jack; and some small single hex sockets I expect. Modern brake fluid doesn't last very long I'm afraid, it's a good idea to change it every couple of years to keep your brakes fit and healthy. Every year is an even better idea.
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brakes
Nov 5, 2012 20:04:51 GMT 1
Post by gpw on Nov 5, 2012 20:04:51 GMT 1
I can't find out very much about compensator valves I'm afraid 48. The main thing to go wrong appears to be that they seize and break the arm. There's some guff on this site about changing one. Not Transit I'm afraid, but it's the best I could do in the time I had. www.safebraking.com/brake-tech-rusty-toyota-brake-load-compensating-valves/If you decide to change it, there appear to be different valves for lighter Transits than the heavier ones. They might also vary with the spring type. When you undo the tube nut on an old brake pipe, I'm afraid there's always a risk that you will wreck the pipe. Sorry, sh-one-T happens. You can reduce the risks if you lubricate the thread for for a day or two before. I lubricate with brake juice which soaks through the rust quite well. If you decide to use an oil take great care not to get any oil inside the fitting or the pipe.
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brakes
Nov 5, 2012 22:35:52 GMT 1
Post by FredTransit on Nov 5, 2012 22:35:52 GMT 1
its most likely the compensator is siezed, give it agood dose of WD40 and see if you can free it off. We have a Mk3 compensator on one of ours. Not exactly a straighr swap but doable. You need tofab a new bracket an replace some brske pipes.
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brakes
Nov 6, 2012 13:47:56 GMT 1
Post by fortyeight on Nov 6, 2012 13:47:56 GMT 1
cheers for the info up to now only bleeded the brakes so ill see what happens
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brakes
Nov 6, 2012 14:56:31 GMT 1
Post by gpw on Nov 6, 2012 14:56:31 GMT 1
Let us know if you want a 100% foolproof way to bleed difficult brakes 48.
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brakes
Nov 7, 2012 16:33:23 GMT 1
Post by fortyeight on Nov 7, 2012 16:33:23 GMT 1
yeh i could do with the 100% foolproof way to bleed them cheers
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brakes
Nov 7, 2012 17:30:08 GMT 1
Post by fortyeight on Nov 7, 2012 17:30:08 GMT 1
hi when you say siezed ,what part are you on about because theres not much to look at,a spring and a arm ,do these move when the brake is applied ,its still on the motor,cheers
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brakes
Nov 7, 2012 19:58:41 GMT 1
Post by gpw on Nov 7, 2012 19:58:41 GMT 1
I look at the arm and the attachment to the axle, If one or other is broken the pivot inside the compensator has seized..
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brakes
Nov 12, 2012 18:34:16 GMT 1
Post by muttleymk2 on Nov 12, 2012 18:34:16 GMT 1
It sounds like you may have had a hydraulic fluid problem, how old is the fluid? Brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs water, the water can boil when the fluid gets hot. This means your brakes can go spongey as you use them. Then when you go to use them again later the cooler fluid works normally. I suggest you change the brake fluid and then you can bleed the brakes at the same time. Brake fluid is a serviceable item and should be changed regularily, this rarely happens in practice and your fliud may be years old
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brakes
Nov 12, 2012 19:16:28 GMT 1
Post by FredTransit on Nov 12, 2012 19:16:28 GMT 1
sorry to say cant tell you how old most of pur brake fluid is..........
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brakes
Nov 12, 2012 21:31:06 GMT 1
Post by gpw on Nov 12, 2012 21:31:06 GMT 1
It sounds like you may have had a hydraulic fluid problem, how old is the fluid? Brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs water, the water can boil when the fluid gets hot. This means your brakes can go spongey as you use them. Then when you go to use them again later the cooler fluid works normally. I suggest you change the brake fluid and then you can bleed the brakes at the same time. Brake fluid is a serviceable item and should be changed regularily, this rarely happens in practice and your fliud may be years old To true Muttley, and, as I'm sure you already know, that's only part of the horror story. After 12 to 18 months the additives are beginning to pop their clogs.
Once the additives start losing their magic powers, the electrolysis leeches the copper out the Bundy tube whereup the copper ions attack the pistons and cylinders seizing up with what we used to think was rust.
Nightmare.
Anyhow, last I heard, 48 was going to flush the old fluid out, and replace it with nice new stuff.
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brakes
Nov 12, 2012 21:32:52 GMT 1
Post by gpw on Nov 12, 2012 21:32:52 GMT 1
sorry to say cant tell you how old most of pur brake fluid is.......... That's not very clever I'm afraid Fred.
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brakes
Nov 13, 2012 19:27:24 GMT 1
Post by fortyeight on Nov 13, 2012 19:27:24 GMT 1
hi up to now only bled them ,seems better but no air came out,ill have change all the fluid when i get chance
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brakes
Nov 13, 2012 19:43:43 GMT 1
Post by fortyeight on Nov 13, 2012 19:43:43 GMT 1
changing the fluid saturday if i can get the van on the hydraulic ramp at a frieds garage if its not getting used
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