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Post by jonochap on Oct 24, 2012 19:20:14 GMT 1
Dear board of specialists in my compooter How (using basic tools) do i remove the rubber matting from the metal strip by the footwells and replace without ruining the metal trim??? Have found some noise reduction matting (having read all the articles i can find) and would like to fit but this bit is perplexing me Thanks in advance...
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Post by FredTransit on Oct 25, 2012 0:06:11 GMT 1
if I remember right, the triagular bits between the step and wheel arch are pop riveted on so you need to drill them out........
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Post by gpw on Oct 25, 2012 4:29:08 GMT 1
. Personally, I'd go underneath and attack the pop rivets from behind. Then drive them out using a pin punch.
The pop rivets are probably well corroded already.
As, when, and if you go the pin punch route, be very gentle. Better still, give each pop rivet a tap in turn so that you lift the capping strip a little at a time all the may along.
I suspect you'd get better results by putting your noise reducing material on the vertical metal.
Good luck.
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Post by FredTransit on Oct 25, 2012 11:03:13 GMT 1
are you sure gpw? Give me the chouce of drilling em our from above and crawling about in the damp and gloom under the van I know what I would do!! :? ;D
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Post by gpw on Oct 25, 2012 11:23:48 GMT 1
.If you were paying me to do a proper job, that's what I'd do Fred. If it was my motor, I'd realise that rubber mats sound proof, and that deadening, and then muffling stuff on the uncovered panels would do a better job. But that answers the question he didn't ask. .
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Post by jonochap on Oct 25, 2012 19:21:11 GMT 1
Ah, yes, thank you all, so there is a chance that i can push the pins up a bit, release the mat and push back down, interesting...yes i get the bit about as high behind the dash board as i can, however, that does not solve the problem of the holes in the mat where you can see the road, left over from the seat removal. And the mat does not give enough to be able to get underneath by the seats. Thank you for posting replies, they are now logged in the system of work
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Post by gpw on Oct 25, 2012 20:35:18 GMT 1
. How about filling the holes with summat. Perhaps mastic?
Your "motto" keeps ringing in my brain Jono, from memory, your rubber mats haven't got any reinforcing and are prone to tearing when you handle them.
By the way, if you tackle things from underneath, you have to remove the expanded part of the pop rivet, and then tap what's left through. Afterwards, you have to rivet it on again.
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Post by jonochap on Oct 28, 2012 19:50:03 GMT 1
Thanks all and esp gpw, yes that bit about re riveting worried me too esp as i dont have a riveter. Did quite alot of research on sound deadening and found some sticky back dense foam (6mm) at a reasonable price. According to the experts dense foam is better for stopping noise while other rubberised treatments (some people use flashing or dynamat) is better at bouncing bass back. So, no removing rivets, gel holes closed and try and push the backing as far behind the dash as pos (not taking dash out). The dense foam should be easier to cut and tailor although it will be interesting to see how good the glue backing is...then gonna see if i can line the doors as well. Although they say its weight that stops panels making noise...will let you all know how i get on
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Post by jonochap on Oct 28, 2012 20:03:26 GMT 1
Closed cell foam is the technical term, sorry all
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Post by gpw on Oct 28, 2012 20:34:41 GMT 1
. The way I understand it Jono, heavy self adhesive stops the panel vibrating. Closed foam has a soft surface that doesn't reflect or transmit sound well.
If you can stick heavy tiles on first, and foam over the top, you have a belt and braces job.
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Post by jonochap on Oct 28, 2012 23:12:45 GMT 1
Ooh, food for thought, ok...will consider
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Post by jonochap on Oct 31, 2012 18:38:51 GMT 1
Strangely thick foam fell from the sky so was cut and put into place, only prob was that it was about 50mm thick so could only do the verticals and gaffer the gaps...thinking on overcarpeting now but not sure
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