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Post by cadill69 on Nov 10, 2012 13:09:30 GMT 1
Hi, I have bit of a low rumble coming from my passenger side inner front wheel bearing on a Mk1. It is an Australian transit but the brake and steering systems are the same as the European ones. I note in the workshop manual it says to repack bearing every 15,000 k's. It sounds more like being dry than damaged. Any difficulty in getting to the bearing? It appears to be a simple enough job ie remove spindle nut, remove outer conical bearing, back off brake shoes, remove wheel and drum together (no need to separate drum and wheel! ) Remove 4 nuts holding brake plate on,remove brake backing plate and the bearing will be exposed. Anyone done this?? Any problems? Attachments:
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Post by gpw on Nov 10, 2012 13:39:08 GMT 1
Your bearings will have part number on Cady.
Any bearing shop should be able to match against the numbers. Apart from that, bearings come up on Ebay.
Front wheel bearing - lubrication and adjustment 1 Remove the wheel trim and using a screwdriver ease off the grease cap from the centre of the hub. 2 With the vehicle in an unladen condition jack up the front and place on firmly based axle stands. 3 Straighten the split pin ears and withdraw the split pin. Lift away the adjusting nut retainer and unscrew the adjust ing nut. Fig. U.l. 4 Withdraw the thrust washer and outer cone and rollers assembly. 5 Backoff the brake adjusters (see chapter 9) and lift away the wheel and hub assembly. 6 Using a soft metal drift remove the inner cone and rollers and also the grease retainer. Take care not to damage the roller cage. The grease retainer must be discarded and a new one obtained ready ior refitting. 7 Remove all traces of grease in the hub and bearings by washing in paraffin. Wipe dry with a non fluffy rag. 8 Carefully inspect the bearings for signs of wear, damage or overheating .which, if evident new bearing sets must be obtained. Always use a new grease retainer. 9 Before reassembling pack the rollers and cages with grease making sure it is worked well into the cages. Do not repack the hub. 10 The bearing cones should be a push fit on the spindle body with no signs of movement other than sliding motion. If a clearance is evident, this being caused by the bearing rotating on it, do not attempt to rectify except by fitting a new set of bearings as well as a new spindle body. 11 Using a suitable diameter tube fit the inner cone and rollers and also the grease retainer. 12 Refit the wheel and hub assembly to the spindle followed by the outer cone and rollers. 13 Replacethe thrust washer and adjustment nut, tightening the latter to a torque wrench setting of 17 to 25 Ib ft (2. 35 to 3. 5 Kgm. ) whilst at the same time rotating the wheel. 14 Turn the adjustment nut back one flat which will give an end float of 0. 002 to 0. 0065 inch (0. 05 to 0.165 mm. ) Refit the nut retainer and lock with a new split pin. 15 Replace the grease cap and referring to chapter 9 re adjust the brakes. 16 Remove the axle stands, lower the vehicle to the ground and refit the wheel trims. 3 Front drum and hub - removal, overhaul and refitting 1 Refer to section 3 and follow the instructions in paragraphs 1 to 8 inclusive. Remove the road wheel. 2 Using a soft faced hammer carefully remove the brake drum from over the studs. 3 Using a soft metal drift carefully remove the bearing cups from out of the hub. Work evenly around the edge making sure that the cup remains square with the bore of the hub. 4 If necessary the wheel studs may be pressed out using a bench vice and socket to act as a spacer. 5 To fit the bearing cups to the hub place the hub on a soft wood block and with a suitable diameter tube carefully drive the cups fully home. It is important that the cups are not allowed to tilt during refitting. Make sure they are fitted the correct way round with the tapers facing outwards. 6 Using the bench vice again, refit the wheel studs to the hub working from the inner face of the hub flange. 7 Refit the hub onto the spindle and adjust the end float as described in section 3 paragraphs 9 to 15 inclusive. 8 Refit the road wheel and tighten the wheel nuts to a torque wrench setting of 55 to 70 Ib ft (7. 6 to 9. 7 Kgm. ) - 75 to 115 models or 115 to 130 Ib ft (16 to 18 Kg, \.) - 125 to 175 models. Refit the wheel trim.
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Post by cadill69 on Nov 10, 2012 13:58:09 GMT 1
Okidoke, that is pretty similar to what my manual says apart from always replacing grease retainer. I might just pack some more grease in to see if that fixes it. I use it every day...thanks.
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Post by gpw on Nov 10, 2012 13:59:28 GMT 1
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Post by cadill69 on Nov 10, 2012 23:11:42 GMT 1
As a matter of interest has anyone come across the grease cap having nipples? I thought mine were added afterwards but they appear to be factory made. I have two manuals. An Australian ford manual and an Autobook one which is for the European model. Attachments:
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Post by cadill69 on Nov 10, 2012 23:14:02 GMT 1
The oz ford one. (only one attachment per post??) Attachments:
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Post by gpw on Nov 10, 2012 23:26:38 GMT 1
Grease caps, we calls 'em dust caps for trailers that goes into the water have grease nipples on them. I don't know how much they increase the risk of greasing your linings.
Bearing Buddies.
Just found a You Tube vid about them on a truck.
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Post by cadill69 on Nov 11, 2012 0:01:37 GMT 1
Yep, got bearing buddies on a trailer. Wouldn't have thought there would be any chance of getting grease on linings. Anyway, got rid of nipple and glued a coin to seal hole.... ;D Attachments:
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Post by cadill69 on Nov 11, 2012 2:21:20 GMT 1
Ok, pulled it down. Have to say it is quicker taking wheel and drum off then wheel only! One nut instead 6. Inner race is definitely worn. I cleaned and greased and put back together. It is quieter but will replace tomorrow. Pity it is Sunday here
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Post by gpw on Nov 11, 2012 8:43:38 GMT 1
Yep, got bearing buddies on a trailer. Wouldn't have thought there would be any chance of getting grease on linings. ist Law of Mechanics: - What can go wrong, will go wrong. Plus 9 Before reassembling pack the rollers and cages with grease making sure it is worked well into the cages. Do not repack the hub.
What's the grease gun doing through the nipple if it's not repacking the hub?
There are special doofers for greasing bearings before you refit them.
Anyway, got rid of nipple and glued a coin to seal hole.... ;D Why bother? It weren't doing you no harm were it?
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Post by gpw on Nov 11, 2012 9:01:39 GMT 1
Ok, pulled it down. Have to say it is quicker taking wheel and drum off then wheel only! One nut instead 6. Inner race is definitely worn. I cleaned and greased and put back together. It is quieter but will replace tomorrow. Pity it is Sunday here
Dunno, give you the chance to say a few hail Mary's at the Alter of Bacchus. ;D
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Post by FredTransit on Nov 11, 2012 13:15:19 GMT 1
had a prob with a single wheel front bearing loosing grease on even a short run after suddenly having to press Kim into daily servixe. Was told it was a badly worn race and thought about going disc but then Muttley informed me the bearing was packed with the wrong grease which was melting when the hub got hot. All good now!
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Post by gpw on Nov 11, 2012 16:37:01 GMT 1
The same thing happens when you have too much grease in the hub Fred. Too much even of the right grease.
Hub / gease temperatures rise as you drive, and when the weather gets warm if you packed the hub on a cold day,. When the hub / grease temperatures rise, the grease expands. When the grease expands, it's got to go somewhere, which is out of the hub.
Same happens if you fill your tank to the brim in summer. The fuel comes out of a cold tank into your tank. As it heats up it overflows.
Had a boss once who used to fill the tank for me ready for my trip.
By the time I picked the motor up, it was dripping petrol, and I was about to tow a trailer with a lot of propane cylinders on it.
Duh.
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Post by cadill69 on Nov 12, 2012 1:45:51 GMT 1
All sorted, not a rumble to be heard. Incidentally for Aussie transit owners my '74 model uses stock standard pre 1990's holden bearings. Most trailers use these too. Who would have thought. $25 Aus for a kit of inner and outer bearings and split pin.
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Post by gpw on Nov 12, 2012 9:46:41 GMT 1
;D
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